Frequently Asked Questions

Yes—more than most homeowners realize. Your roof surface can run nearly 100°F hotter than the air on summer days, and attics can hit the high 100s. Without proper insulation and balanced airflow, that heat and moisture can warp beams, fry shingles from beneath, and invite rot. The fix is straightforward: sufficient attic insulation plus soffit intake + ridge exhaust ventilation to move hot, wet air out. 

No — you can pay off early without a fee.

Yes. Financing can include related improvements such as skylights, attic ventilation, gutters, or insulation.

No. Once you are approved and documents are signed, we can schedule just like a standard cash project.

Yes. Many customers use financing to cover deductibles or portions of a claim not covered by insurance.

In many cases, PACE assessments can transfer to the new owner at sale, but transferability depends on your buyer, lender, and local rules. We can help you review options before you list.

Yes. Financing can be used for repairs, replacements, or upgrades like skylights and ventilation improvements.

Although it’s not guaranteed, many approvals happen the same day. We’ll guide you through the simple steps.

Nope. Your manufacturer and workmanship warranties are the same regardless of payment method.

Yes—more than most homeowners realize. Your roof surface can run nearly 100°F hotter than the air on summer days, and attics can hit the high 100s. Without proper insulation and balanced airflow, that heat and moisture can warp beams, fry shingles from beneath, and invite rot. The fix is straightforward: sufficient attic insulation plus soffit intake + ridge exhaust ventilation to move hot, wet air out. 

Treat it like preventive medicine.

• Keep gutters clean so water doesn’t back up under edges and soak the decking—check especially after storms. 
• Manage trees: trim back overhangs; big branches are a real hazard in wind events. 
• Insulate the attic to reduce heat transfer that can stress rafters and age materials faster. 
• Ventilate the attic (intake at soffits, exhaust at ridge) to dump heat and moisture before they warp wood or cook shingles from below. 
• Do regular roof cleanups/visual checks for debris, missing/curling shingles, or granule loss. 
• Schedule professional inspections to catch small issues before they snowball. Sarasota heat + summer storms reward proactive care. 

• Asphalt shingles: Affordable, easy to source, and versatile. Pros: fire/water resistance, low maintenance, ~25-year lifespan. Cons: lighter weight can mean blow-offs in big storms; extreme summer heat can warp/crack; expect occasional repair budgeting. 
• Clay tile: Classic look, handles heat and salt spray, long-lasting (up to ~50 years). Pros: fire/rot resistance, stays put in wind. Cons: pricey, heavy (may need structural reinforcement), and fragile during handling. 
• Concrete tile: Popular in Florida and lighter than many expect. Pros: durable (about 50–100 years), low maintenance, fire/water resistance, strong wind performance, color options (can mimic wood/other looks). Cons: somewhat expensive; design options are more limited than premium materials. 
• Metal roofing: Comes in profiles that resemble shingles/tiles/shakes. Pros: little maintenance, fire/water/insect resistance, stands up to salt spray, reflects heat (can lower cooling bills), up to ~40-year lifespan. Cons: higher upfront cost and more limited design choices. 
• Slate: Stunning and extremely durable (often 100+ years). Pros: water/rot/fire resistance, high hurricane tolerance. Cons: very heavy (reinforcement likely), fragile to walk on, and the most expensive option here. 

There isn’t a single winner—it’s about matching material to Sarasota’s heat, humidity, storms, wind, and (for coastal folks) salt spray. Asphalt shingles are budget-friendly and common; concrete and clay tiles bring serious longevity and wind resistance; metal reflects heat and shrugs off salt; slate is gorgeous and ultra-durable but heavy and costly. The “best” choice balances your budget, aesthetics, structural needs, and how exposed your home is to wind and sea air.  

Leaks usually start at weak points—not just during hurricanes. In Florida, extreme heat and UV make materials expand/contract, turning brittle and cracking over time; even asphalt tar can soften and lose its seal. 

• Aging roof: Heat/UV cycles degrade shingles and seals, opening paths for water. 

• Flashing failures: Cracked, rusted, or separated metal around chimneys, vents, valleys, and walls.  
• Missing/damaged shingles: Wind and storms pull or crack shingles, exposing underlayment and decking.  
• Clogged gutters: Standing water backs up under edges and soaks materials—especially in rainy season.
• Skylight leaks: Worn rubber seals or loose skylight flashing let water in at the frame.

No, we do not employ subcontractors. All of the crews we employ are W-2 employees and on our payroll.

Yes. If you browse our Roofing Project Gallery, you will see high-resolution drone videos of our featured projects with links to the materials we used.

Yes, we are licensed by the State of Florida, which you can verify here. We also carry comprehensive liability insurance.

Start with eight essentials: experience, licensing/insurance, past projects & references, estimate, written scope, who’s doing the work, warranty/satisfaction policy, and whether they’ll tear off the old roof.  

Yes. The inspection finds small problems you can fix before a storm—so they don’t become the insurer’s excuse to deny coverage later. New roofs benefit too; insurers look for any reason to minimize payouts, and pre-storm documentation shuts that down.

No—Florida law bars roofers from filing, negotiating, or managing claims on your behalf. We fix the roof; licensed public adjusters handle the claim. We’ll refer you to reputable Sarasota-area adjusters and coordinate our documentation so your claim is airtight.

• Clear gutters and downspouts—overflows are leak starters. 
• Walk the property (from the ground) to spot debris piles, missing/curling shingles, or exposed areas; remove loose debris safely. 
• Book a professional inspection if anything looks off, or if the storm was significant. Pros know what fails first and what needs immediate repair vs. monitoring. If damage is extensive, they’ll also advise on repair vs. replacement, materials, and next steps.

Yes. The inspection finds small problems you can fix before a storm—so they don’t become the insurer’s excuse to deny coverage later. New roofs benefit too; insurers look for any reason to minimize payouts, and pre-storm documentation shuts that down.

No—Florida law bars roofers from filing, negotiating, or managing claims on your behalf. We fix the roof; licensed public adjusters handle the claim. We’ll refer you to reputable Sarasota-area adjusters and coordinate our documentation so your claim is airtight.

Take photos first (don’t move anything), call SonShine for an inspection and temporary protection (e.g., tarping), then loop in a licensed public adjuster. Don’t authorize permanent repairs until your adjuster documents everything, and don’t let the carrier’s field adjuster inspect without your adjuster present.

A full exterior–attic–interior sweep: flashing, vents, gutters, underlayment, fasteners, granular loss, moss/algae, damaged caulking; plus attic ventilation and any moisture, staining, wood rot, or pest evidence—then a clear outline of issues and the best repair plan.  

Twice a year is the pro rule of thumb, and especially ahead of hurricane season. Small leaks can quietly do the worst damage—roofs can even leak for years before you see it inside—so regular inspections pay for themselves.

Think receipts and receipts for your receipts: clear, date-stamped photos (wide + close-ups), a digital inspection report, past invoices, warranties, and prior claim records—organized in a dedicated digital folder. That pre-storm evidence is your strongest antidote to “lack of proof.” 

It’s your paper shield before hurricane season. We document your roof’s condition before a storm so insurers can’t shrug off damage as “pre-existing.” That proof makes denials harder and gives you leverage when it counts. It’s quick, affordable, and can save you tens of thousands.

• Clear gutters and downspouts—overflows are leak starters. 
• Walk the property (from the ground) to spot debris piles, missing/curling shingles, or exposed areas; remove loose debris safely. 
• Book a professional inspection if anything looks off, or if the storm was significant. Pros know what fails first and what needs immediate repair vs. monitoring. If damage is extensive, they’ll also advise on repair vs. replacement, materials, and next steps.

Treat it like preventive medicine.

• Keep gutters clean so water doesn’t back up under edges and soak the decking—check especially after storms. 
• Manage trees: trim back overhangs; big branches are a real hazard in wind events. 
• Insulate the attic to reduce heat transfer that can stress rafters and age materials faster. 
• Ventilate the attic (intake at soffits, exhaust at ridge) to dump heat and moisture before they warp wood or cook shingles from below. 
• Do regular roof cleanups/visual checks for debris, missing/curling shingles, or granule loss. 
• Schedule professional inspections to catch small issues before they snowball. Sarasota heat + summer storms reward proactive care. 

• Before anything: Confirm your roof’s material and current condition so you pick the correct method and avoid accidental damage. 
• Tile or slate: You can pressure wash, but only after checking for leaks so you don’t force water into the attic. Use professional-grade equipment or hire a pro. 
• Asphalt shingles: Skip pressure; use a chemical cleaner formulated for roofs. Apply, let it soak, then gently rinse—no blasting. This approach can keep stains at bay for months. 
• Spot algae/moss: Target small areas with a 50/50 bleach + water mix, then rinse. Expect larger clumps to weather off over time. 

• Triage smartly: Contain interior water, protect belongings, and avoid walking on a wet roof. Schedule a professional inspection to pinpoint the source (many leaks travel before they show up indoors). Then repair the cause, not just the stain.
• Fix by failure type: Replace cracked/missing shingles; reseal or replace failed flashing; clear and re-grade gutters for proper drainage; renew skylight seals and tighten flashing. If the roof is near end-of-life or problems are widespread, plan a replacement rather than stacking band-aid repairs. 
• Stay ahead of it: Regular inspections and seasonal maintenance catch small issues before they escalate; Sarasota’s heat and storms reward proactive care. If you’re unsure what’s brewing up there, bring in a local pro for a straight answer.
  
  
  

Yes—backed-up water can creep under eaves and into your home. Keep gutters clear to prevent overflow intrusion. 

They collect and channel water; if valleys aren’t sealed right, water finds the path of least resistance—inside. 

Yes—backed-up water can creep under eaves and into your home. Keep gutters clear to prevent overflow intrusion. 

If ventilation is poor, moisture can mimic a “leak.” Improving attic airflow often fixes the phantom drip.  

Damaged/missing shingles, cracked flashing, poorly sealed valleys, clogged gutters, skylight/chimney issues, vent boot failures, attic condensation, and plain old roof age. 

Schedule a professional inspection. Our Sarasota-based team weighs age, damage, storm history, and efficiency goals, then gives you a clear recommendation you can trust.

Yes—transparent estimates and financing options help you pick the right path for your budget, without guesswork. See our financing page for more information.

Cracked, curling, or missing shingles, damaged flashing, and recurring leaks can often be repaired if localized. If the damage is widespread or keeps returning, replacement is the safer play. 

Look at age, extent of damage, recent storm impacts, energy efficiency, and total cost over time. If problems are isolated and the roof’s younger, repair. If issues are widespread or the roof’s near end-of-life, replacement protects your home (and wallet) better long-term.  

Yes—more than most homeowners realize. Your roof surface can run nearly 100°F hotter than the air on summer days, and attics can hit the high 100s. Without proper insulation and balanced airflow, that heat and moisture can warp beams, fry shingles from beneath, and invite rot. The fix is straightforward: sufficient attic insulation plus soffit intake + ridge exhaust ventilation to move hot, wet air out. 

Start with weather + exposure (wind zone, rain frequency, salt air), then weigh budget vs. lifespan, maintenance expectations, and structure (some materials—clay/slate—may require reinforcement). If you want cooler interiors, factor in heat reflectivity (metal) and long-term energy savings. Not sure which way to go? A local inspection and consult will align materials with your home’s design, structure, and neighborhood conditions—so you’re not just buying a roof, you’re buying fewer headaches.

• Asphalt shingles: Affordable, easy to source, and versatile. Pros: fire/water resistance, low maintenance, ~25-year lifespan. Cons: lighter weight can mean blow-offs in big storms; extreme summer heat can warp/crack; expect occasional repair budgeting. 
• Clay tile: Classic look, handles heat and salt spray, long-lasting (up to ~50 years). Pros: fire/rot resistance, stays put in wind. Cons: pricey, heavy (may need structural reinforcement), and fragile during handling. 
• Concrete tile: Popular in Florida and lighter than many expect. Pros: durable (about 50–100 years), low maintenance, fire/water resistance, strong wind performance, color options (can mimic wood/other looks). Cons: somewhat expensive; design options are more limited than premium materials. 
• Metal roofing: Comes in profiles that resemble shingles/tiles/shakes. Pros: little maintenance, fire/water/insect resistance, stands up to salt spray, reflects heat (can lower cooling bills), up to ~40-year lifespan. Cons: higher upfront cost and more limited design choices. 
• Slate: Stunning and extremely durable (often 100+ years). Pros: water/rot/fire resistance, high hurricane tolerance. Cons: very heavy (reinforcement likely), fragile to walk on, and the most expensive option here. 

There isn’t a single winner—it’s about matching material to Sarasota’s heat, humidity, storms, wind, and (for coastal folks) salt spray. Asphalt shingles are budget-friendly and common; concrete and clay tiles bring serious longevity and wind resistance; metal reflects heat and shrugs off salt; slate is gorgeous and ultra-durable but heavy and costly. The “best” choice balances your budget, aesthetics, structural needs, and how exposed your home is to wind and sea air.  

Schedule a professional inspection. Our Sarasota-based team weighs age, damage, storm history, and efficiency goals, then gives you a clear recommendation you can trust.

Yes—transparent estimates and financing options help you pick the right path for your budget, without guesswork. See our financing page for more information.

Upfront, yes. Over time, not necessarily. Repeated fixes on an aging roof can outpace the cost of a new, warrantied system that also boosts curb appeal and home value.

Yes. Older roofs often lack modern ventilation/reflective materials. If hot-house bills are rising, a strategic repair or ventilation upgrade might help—but if roof issues are broad, an energy-efficient replacement is the better investment.  

Cracked, curling, or missing shingles, damaged flashing, and recurring leaks can often be repaired if localized. If the damage is widespread or keeps returning, replacement is the safer play. 

Asphalt shingle roofs typically run ~15–20 years; metal and tile can last longer. When you’re near those ranges and repairs keep stacking up, it’s replacement-conversation time.

Look at age, extent of damage, recent storm impacts, energy efficiency, and total cost over time. If problems are isolated and the roof’s younger, repair. If issues are widespread or the roof’s near end-of-life, replacement protects your home (and wallet) better long-term.